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Incidence of high altitude....(6)

DEAD LUCKY: Life After Death on Mount Everest (2008)

ถ้าคุณกำลังหลงรักภูเขาเอฟเวอเรสต์ และสนใจกีฬาปีนเขา
The dead lucky หนังสือขายดีของ Lincoln Hall ที่พิมพ์เสร็จเมื่อเดือนพฤษภาคมทีผ่านมา เป็นเรื่องที่เขาเขียนเอง จากเมื่อ2 ปีที่ผ่านมา

วันที่26 พฤษภาคม2006 เขาเกือบเอาชีวิตไปทิ้ง เป็นเวลาค่ำ่มากแล้วและสามารถพิชิตยอดเขา

Hall เกิดป่วยฉับพลันจาก Altitude sickness
เชอปาส์2คนได้เข้ามาช่วยชีวิตเป็นเวลานาน จนความมืดปกคลุมไปทั่ว และหมดหวัง
และได้รับคำสั่งให้กลับออกมา ฤดูกาลนั้นเรียกว่า Deadly season ของการปีนเขาเอฟเวอร์เรสต์ ทั้งฝนทั้งหิมะ มีนักไต่เขาจากทั่วโลกมาพร้อมเพรียงกัน ตั้งแต่ต้นปี2006 นักไต่เขามีอุบัติเหตูเสียชีวิตไป10คน หายไปโดยไร้ร่องรอย1คน

ข่าวการเสียชีวิตของเขากระจายไปตามสื่อทั่วโลก อย่างรวดเร็ว
ถึงการพิชิต ยอดเขาได้แต่เสียชีวิต ตอนวันนั้น....

เกียวกับหนังสือ DEAD LUCKY...

Lincoln Hall likes to say that on the evening of May 25, 2006 he died on Everest. Indeed, Hall attempted to climb the mountain during a deadly season in which eleven people perished. And Hall, in fact, was pronounced dead, after collapsing from cerebral oedema (also known as “altitude sickness”) shortly after reaching the summit. Two sherpas spent hours trying to revive him but, as darkness fell, the expedition's leader ordered via radio that the sherpas should descend in order to save themselves. Hall was pronounced dead and the news of his death traveled rapidly from mountaineering websites to news media around the world, and ultimately to Hall's wife and two sons back in Australia. Early the next morning, an American guide climbing with two clients and a Sherpa was startled to find Hall sitting cross-legged on a sharp crest of the summit ridge just staring at them.

Dead lucky...A gripping, almost unbelievable story of survival.

หนังสือเล่มนี้จะทำให้คุณมีอารมณ์ในการอ่านต่งกันไป มีความกลัว มีการอยากเอาชนะ การรู้สึกปลดปล่อย และทุกอย่างขึ้นอยููู่่กับอนัตตา

เป็นเรื่องราวการสร้างความเข้มแข็งของจิตใจมนุษย์
ที่รักความยากลำบาก ต่อสู้กับความเหนื่อยยาก Lincoln Hall เกือบปิดฉากชีวิตนักปีนเขาที่เริ่มมาหลายสิบปี ตั้งแต่คศ.1984 และพยายามมาตลอด

Becoming a climber

มาลองเป็นนักไต่เขา

It doesn’t require 10 years of climbing to attempt Everest. 2-3 years could be adequate if you climb very often, including some high Alpine climbs. But you should still take your time to learn the skills and enjoy the practice on various mountains around the world. It’s a longer, yet much more rewarding approach to climb Everest.

Becoming a climber

1. Take a course in rock climbing

Start in spring or summer for the best weather, most spare time and fun. An initial rock-climbing course usually takes a weekend. It will familiarize you with the gear. Ropes, personal/climbing equipment, belaying, the techniques to climb various rock formations and rock materials, abseiling, how to find routes to climb (there are route-guide books) and of course the art of rock climbing itself (to use your legs rather than your arms and so on). Expect sore legs, arms, back and fingertips. And a whole new dimension to your life.

2. Practice

Buy a guidebook for various climbs and routes in your neighborhood and start practice what you’ve learned.

You don’t need to be a skilled rock climber to climb the Himalayas since the technical parts of alpine mountains usually are different from rock "tip" climbing. You will wear bulky shoes and clothing - the rocks will be rougher and wider.

But you need rock climbing skills to know the proper techniques. It will make your climb so much easier.

Practice everywhere. Go outdoors, at evenings and weekends. It's a neat feeling to climb a steep, dark, wet and cold hill at night, and then dress up in the car for a fancy dinner at an upscale restaurant!

Climb while spending a weekend at the in-laws summer house. Behind the mall. At school brakes. In the park. There are rocks to be found everywhere. People think that you are crazy? Don’t worry about it. You are about to become an Everest climber!

Bring climbing gear with you on vacations. We’ve had some great rock climbs in really unexpected places like the Seychelles. Make climbing a part of your every day life. 10 minutes here. One hour there. You have the time.

3. Aid climbing

After you have practiced some rock climbing on your own, say a month or two, you should follow up with a class in aid climbing. It takes just a day or two and will introduce you to further techniques in artificial climbing and pegs.

These skills are specifically suited for difficult walls and tricky sections. With these techniques, you’ll get in and out of everywhere.

4. Time to go Ice

You have climbed for around, say - 3 months, and if you started at summer and live in a temperate climate, now is the season to take a class in ice climbing. This course takes anything from 1-3 days, depending on travel. You will learn to use ice- screws, snow belays, crampons and those cool ice picks. You will be wearing hard boots and learn to climb in heavy weather gear. The ice will shimmer translucent blue and green, you will be mortified, but in the end you'll make it and then transform into Superman, ready to sign autographs!

5. Ready for the Big Ones

Following the winters ice-climbs, it is now spring and a good time to join a guided expedition to a high mountain. Denali in Alaska is a good one. The climb is around 2 weeks, season ranging from May to July. You will learn to deal with cold and foul weather, altitude, to pack light, to melt water and prepare altitude food, how to set up camp, what gear to use and how to use it.

Also, you will learn how you respond to altitude - what is normal and when to be alarmed. You will also learn to handle various mountaineering problems, medicals and alpine illness preventions.

Since we had already attended a mountaineering course in the Mount Blanc massif, we took on Denali alone. Reading the book "Surviving Denali" (Jonathan Waterman) prior to the climb was of great value to us.

6. On your own

It's time to make your own expedition. Aaargh! Take on an easy mountain: Cho Oyu in Nepal and the likes. (But never underestimate ANY mountain). Practice what you learned when you were guided. Good time to climb Cho Oyo is in the fall, September/October. Aconcagua, South America, is a favorite in the spring.

7. Everest

Ready to go. Here is how...

Mt. Everest มีความสููงกว่าทะเล 29,035 Ft อยู่ในเทิอกเขาหิมาลัย

ประเทศเนปาล

เทือกเขาหิมาลัยได้รับการยอมรับว่าสููงที่สุดในโลก เราลองมาดูกันว่า

ความสูงที่ทำให้เกิดการเจ็บป่วย เป็นอย่างไร

การเตรียมตัวก่อนเดินทางจะเป็นวิถีทางที่ดีที่สุดในการเดินทาง
ตัดความคับข้องใจออกไป เมื่อมีการเรียนรู้

กลับมาดูการเดินเขาแบบThe ultimate pilgrimage to Kailash &Mansarovar lake

Introduction Most of the pilgrims with their religious purpose would like to visit at Mt. Kailash Mansarovar
4500m or Gosainkund Lake (4300m). The high altitude illness is used to describe the cerebral and
pulmonary syndromes that can develop in unacclimatized persons shortly after ascent to high
altitude. High altitude illness usually occurs at altitude above 2500m. Sometime it may occur at the
altitude of 1500m. This is mainly caused by hypoxia but is compounded by cold and with rapid
ascent.

มีความพยายามให้การศึกษาให้ผู้มี่ความประสงค์จะมาแสวงบุญที่เขาไกรลาสประเทศเนปาล

ตระหนักถึงอันตรายการเ็จ็บป่วยเมื่อขึ้บบนที่สูง ที่เมื่อเปรียบเทียบ

กับ คำจำกัดความของนายแพทย์ Ivan Schatz แพทย์ประจำบ้าน ของ โรงพยาบาล Pomona Valley ที่ศึกษาวิจัยเรื่อง High Altitude Illness

ได้ให้คำจำกัดไว้ และบอกถึงผลกระทบ ถึงความดันในระบบเลือด ที่ไม่สามารถจะเยียวยาได้

This was Ivan Schatz picture after he went from summit Aconcagua 2003

คำจำกัดความของคำว่า High Altitude

High Altitude : 1500-3500 ( 4950-11,500 Ft)

Very high Altitude :3500-5500 m. ( 11,500-18,050 Ft.)

The pressure of Oxygen in the arteries( PaO2) fall below 60mmHg, and the saturation of oxygen (SaO2) Falls below90%

Extreme altitude: Beyond5500m. Marked decrease in Oxygen

( hypoxemia) and decrease in carbon dioxide ( hypocapnia) occur, and acclimatization is impossible.

Ivan Schatz, MD. F.A.C.E.P

Clinical Assistant Professor of family Medicine /Emdicine
Family MedicineEmergency Medicine
Western University of Health Sciences

Incidence of High Altitude Illness at Mt. Kailash Mansarovar (4500m), Tibet
by Direct Helicopter Flight, A Cross-sectional Study.
Shakya YMa
Abstract

Introduction Most of the pilgrims with their religious purpose would like to visit at Mt. Kailash Mansarovar
4500m or Gosainkund Lake (4300m). The high altitude illness is used to describe the cerebral and
pulmonary syndromes that can develop in unacclimatized persons shortly after ascent to high
altitude. High altitude illness usually occurs at altitude above 2500m. Sometime it may occur at the
altitude of 1500m. This is mainly caused by hypoxia but is compounded by cold and with rapid
ascent.
Objectives To determine the incidence of HAI (High Altitude Illness) which include AMS (Acute Mountain
Sickness), high altitude cerebral edema (HACE), high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) in
pilgrims who fly directly then drive with a single overnight at Taklacoat and then Mt. Kailash -
Mansarovar lake in Tibet (4500m) during the 2nd day and returning back to Kathmandu on the 3rd
day.
Methods Study of 37 pilgrims at Mt. Mansarovar with a close look at their clinical history, signs and
symptoms and evaluated by the Lake Louise Consensus for AMS, HACE, HAPE.

Acute Mountain Sickness

An altitude over 3,000 meters (9,843 feet) is usually defined as high altitude. Since most places in Tibet are higher than this level, Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), also called Altitude Sickness is the biggest health risk to tourists in Tibet. AMS is common at high altitudes due to the decreasing availability of oxygen. Most people will experience differing degrees of symptoms at high elevation. The occurrence of AMS is dependent on the altitude, the ascent rate and individual physical condition. Symptoms of AMS include headache, nausea, dizziness, fatigue, shortness of breath, loss of appetite and disturbed sleep. Most people will experience one or more AMS symptoms upon their arrival in Tibet. The symptoms will usually gradually decrease in severity during acclimatization. Mild AMS usually will not interfere with mild activity.

However AMS can be very serious, with the most serious symptoms being High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), which can be fatal. Symptoms of HAPE include weakness, shortness of breath, even at rest, impending suffocation at night, and a persistent productive cough with white, watery, or frothy fluid. Symptoms of HPCE may include headache, ataxia, weakness, hallucinations, psychotic behavior, coma and loss of memory. Both approach and strike at night and can be fatal! Immediate descent is the surest treatment.

Before visiting Tibet, get as fit and healthy as possible, both physically and psychologically. Visitors having record of heart, lung, other organ problems or anemia should consult their doctor before making the decision to visit Tibet.

AMS can be lessened or avoided with proper acclimatization, which will also ease and reduce AMS symptoms. A gradual ascent will allow your body to acclimatize to higher altitudes and the decreased oxygen supply. Go no higher 300 - 400 hundred meters (984 - 1,312 feet) daily and have a rest after each 1,000 meter (3280 feet) ascent. Medication also helps to prevent AMS. Mild AMS symptoms can be treated with proper medication. If medication does not relieve the symptoms, go to hospital or evacuate immediately to safe altitude!
The following precautions may help to prevent or lessen the effects of AMS:
Since fluid loss usually accompanies the acclimatization process, drink plenty of fluids (3 - 4 litres daily at least) and eat carbohydrate food to keep the body properly hydrated;
Do not over exert and only partake in light activity immediate after your arrival;
Don't smoke, drink alcohol or take other depressants such as tranquilizers and sleeping pills. These will depress the respiratory drive and limit oxygen intake. Always keep in mind the following rules which will ensure a smooth and enjoyable trip to Tibet:
Any sickness at high altitude is AMS until proven otherwise; • Never go higher with symptoms of AMS;
It is significant that you report any symptoms of AMS immediately to other group members in the trip.

Before you go to Tibet
Seek advice from people who have similar experiences. The most important thing is that you should never be nervous or worried about your trip. Regard the trip to Tibet like a trip to any other cities. You should always be optimistic.
If you have respiratory problems, we advise you to postpone your trip till you are fully recovered.
A thorough physical examination is necessary. If you have problems like anemia or hypertension, or suffer from heart problems and other illness of lungs, liver or kidney, you should not go to Tibet.
You need to bring enough water or drinks and fruits. Snacks with high caloric content, like chocolate, will come in handy.

When you are in Tibet
Rest right after your arrival. You should not do anything strenuous on the first day. Brisk walking and running are not advised. We suggest that you do not smoke nor drink alcohol too. Do not eat too much for dinner.
It quite often happens that people feel short of breath. If it is not serious, please do not rely on oxygen equipment all the time so that you can acclimate yourself to the high altitude as early as possible.
Do not take showers or bathes too frequently especially on your first night in Tibet. This will help you avoid catching severe colds.
If you feel chilly or feel very uncomfortable, you need to tell your guide about this. You guide could send you to the best hospital available in the area.

บทคัดย่อ ( Abstract) ของ General Practice, Institute of Medicine, Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital, Maharajgunj, Kathmandu, Nepal

ที่ได้มีการนำเนื้อหาทางการวิจัย ที่ใช้ในการสอน ในคณะแพทยศาสตร์ ที่เนปาล ซึ่งเป็นความพยายามให้ทุกฝ่ายให้การศึกษาเมื่อมาท่องเทียวหิมาลัย

และการมาแสวงบุูญเพื่อศาสนาที่ปฏิบัติมาตลอดในระยะ 50ที่ผ่านมา

ซึ่งจะพบว่ายังมีช่องว่างที่นักเดินทางไม่ได้รับการช่วยเหลือ หรือให้การศึกษา อย่างจริงจัง หรือการตายของนักไต่เขาจากทั่วโลก เกือบ10 คน ที่น่าจะได้รับความรู้ และหาทางป้องกันให้มากที่สุด

เพราะกีฬาปีนเขานับเป็นกีฬาที่เสียค่าใช้จ่ายมากที่สุดอย่างหนึ่ง

มีคนจำนวนมากยังไม่เข้าใจว่าทำไม ต้องไปเสี่ยงกับความตาย หรือความพิการ อย่างสาหัส

แต่การปีนเขาก็เป็นการฝึกวินัยของมนุษย์ ที่จะต้องดูแลตนเอง
ตอสู้กับความกลัว ทั้งหมด และทำงานเป็นทีม เพื่อช่วยเหลืิอ เพื่อนมนุษย์

ในความเหนื่อยยากทั้งปวงกับเป็นพลัง ที่เรียกว่าปิติยินดี...ที่เป็นสิ่งที่หาไม่ได้ในชีวิตประจำวันทีเรา จะยิ้มกับตัวเองได้นานและมีความหฤหรรษ์กับธรรมชาติได้ดีที่สุดปราศจากความกลัว

และคำตอบต่อมาก็คือระวังภัย อย่างเสี่ยงภัย เพราะธรรมชาติไม่ใช่สิ่งที่จะล้อเล่นกัน

UPDATE : Lincoln Hall

Friday, May 26, 2006 photo released by Project-Himalaya.com shows Australian mountaineer Lincoln Hall in a tent at Mount Everest's advanced base camp at 6,400 meters (20,997 feet). Hall, who had been given up for dead near the summit of Everest in 2006 has died of cancer. Friends and climbing partners said he died Wednesday, March 21, 2012 at a Sydney hospital a year after being diagnosed with mesothelioma. He had been exposed to asbestos doing construction work early in his life. (AP Photo/Project-Himalaya.com, Jamie McGuinness)

Lincoln Hall (climber)
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Lincoln Hall
Personal information
Nationality Australian
Born 19 December 1955
Canberra, Australian Capital Territory, Australia
Died 20 March 2012 (aged 56)
Camperdown, Sydney, Australia
Climbing career
Type of climber Mountaineer
First ascents Mount Minto, Antarctica (1988), many first Australian ascents of major peaks.
Named routes Hall Route, Carstensz Pyramid (1993)
Major ascents Mount Everest (2006), Makalu (1999), Annapurna II (1983), Dunagiri (1978)
Lincoln Ross Hall OAM (19 December 1955 – 20 March 2012) was a veteran Australian mountain climber, adventurer, author and philanthropist. Hall was part of the first Australian expedition to climb Mount Everest in 1984, which successfully forged a new route, and he reached the summit of the mountain on his second attempt in 2006, surviving the night at 8,700 m (28,543 ft) on descent.

Hall was a founding Director of the Australian Himalayan Foundation. He was the author of seven books, was a founding member of the philanthropic organisation the Australian Himalayan Foundation and was a speaker, sharing his experiences with audiences around the world.

In 1987 Hall was awarded a Medal of the Order of Australia for service to mountaineering and in 2010 he won the Australian Geographic Society's Lifetime of Adventure award. He was a life member of the Australian National University Mountaineering Club. He died of mesothelioma aged 56 on 20 March 2012.

Hall was born in Canberra, Australia, and went to Telopea Park High School. He studied Zoology at the Australian National University and learned to climb at climbing crags in the Australian Capital Territory, most notably Booroomba Rocks (where he pioneered a number of classic routes). He developed his ice climbing skills in the Snowy Mountains at Blue Lake and trained to climb by traversing the walls of buildings at his university campus.

Career
Hall had his real start with mountaineering when he participated in the Australian National University Mountaineering Club expeditions to New Zealand from 1975 to 1978. This culminated in the ANUMC 1978 expedition to the Himalayan peak Dunagiri (7066m) in India. Hall and his climbing partner Tim Macartney-Snape (Australia) were invited by Expedition Leader Peter Cocker to join him at Col Camp so the pair could force through a route through to the summit ridge. They did so then made an audacious push for the summit after spending a night out on the mountain. Hall was pivotal in the successful summit bid by Macartney-Snape.

The pair descended through an electrical storm, however Hall spent another night out on the mountain. Cocker ascended during the night and met him at the top of the fixed ropes and accompanied him back to Col Camp. The ANUMC team then raced Hall down to Base Camp where he was helicoptered to a Military Hospital near Delhi. This was at the time possibly the highest helicopter rescue in the Himalayas.

The successful Dunagiri trip by the ANUMC forged the Hall and Macartney-Snape partnership, setting the stage for their Himalayan mountaineering careers including their 1984 Mount Everest Expedition.

After Dunagiri, Hall's mountaineering career went from strength to strength as he participated in and led numerous climbing adventures around the world, including many first ascents by Australian climbers. Amongst these were two expeditions to climb Mount Everest in Nepal (including the first Australian ascent in 1984); the first ascent of Mt Minto in the Admiralty Mountains of Antarctica (1998); and ascents of other notable peaks including Annapurna II (7963m) in Nepal, Makalu (8481m) on the China-Nepal border, and Carstensz Pyramid in Irian Jaya, Indonesia.

Rescue on Everest[edit]
Hall narrowly survived after his ascent of Mount Everest in 2006. He was left for dead at an altitude of 8700m while descending from the summit on 25 May 2006. He had fallen ill from a form of altitude sickness, probably cerebral edema, that caused him to hallucinate and become confused. According to reports, Hall's Sherpa guides attempted to rescue him for hours. However, as night began to fall their oxygen supplies diminished and snow blindness set in. Expedition leader Alexander Abramov eventually ordered the guides to leave the apparently dead Hall on the mountain and return to camp. A statement was later released announcing his death to his friends and family.[8]

However, the next morning, 12 hours later, Hall was found still alive by a team making a summit attempt. The team consisted of team leader Daniel Mazur (U.S.), Andrew Brash (Canada), Myles Osborne (UK) and Jangbu Sherpa (Nepal). Osborne described the scene just below the Second Step:

"Sitting to our left, about two feet from a 10,000 foot drop, was a man. Not dead, not sleeping, but sitting cross legged, in the process of changing his shirt. He had his down suit unzipped to the waist, his arms out of the sleeves, was wearing no hat, no gloves, no sunglasses, had no oxygen mask, regulator, ice axe, oxygen, no sleeping bag, no mattress, no food nor water bottle. 'I imagine you're surprised to see me here', he said. Now, this was a moment of total disbelief to us all. Here was a gentleman, apparently lucid, who had spent the night without oxygen at 8600m, without proper equipment and barely clothed. And ALIVE."

A rescue effort that mountain observers described as "unprecedented in scale" then swung into action. Mazur and his team abandoned their summit attempt to stay with Hall, who was badly frostbitten and delusional from the effects of severe cerebral edema. At the same time, Abramov dispatched a rescue team of 12 Sherpas guides from the base camp. The rescue team comprised Nima Wangde Sherpa, Passang Sherpa, Furba Rushakj Sherpa, Dawa Tenzing Sherpa, Dorjee Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Mingma Dorjee Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Passang Gaylgen Sherpa, and Lakcha Sherpa.

Hall was brought down the mountain, walking the last part of the way to Everest's North Col where he was treated by a Russian doctor. He arrived at Advanced Base Camp the next day in reasonably good health although suffering from frostbite and the lingering effects of cerebral edema. He lost the tips of his fingers and a toe to frostbite.

Hall's survival and rescue came shortly after the death of UK climber David Sharp on the mountain. No attempt was made to rescue Sharp. While he was unconscious but still alive, other climbers passed him and continued on their own ascents. However, unlike David Sharp, Hall was conscious and able to walk, two factors that allowed for his rescue. The case had raised concerns, including comments from Sir Edmund Hillary.[citation needed] Dan Mazur said of his team abandoning their summit attempt, "The summit is still there and we can go back. Lincoln only has one life."

Hall's story was subsequently featured on the American television program I Shouldn't Be Alive in the episode

"Left for Dead on Everest".