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how to draft the gathering peterpan collar from Mrs. Stylebook

Source : Mrs. Stylebook issue 143 page 46

1. Lower front neckline to get more V-shape and check the back
neckline as well if you did wider the neckline at shoulder point.
Photo is not clear, under arm to neckline 10 inches, 4 1/4" at
the Center Front, measuring from bust line at dart.

From now on most of measuring will be in Centimeter.
My Front (symbol zero with a slash across) 19.5 cm.
My back (symbol letter X) 10.9 cm.

2. Copy the front neckline, shoulder and center front area for
drafting the collar.

3. Drafting according to the drawing, the frist line (I think) is
the one that extended from shoulder, I guess it should be 2 cm.
It represents the foldline of the collar. Mrs.Stylebook called this
point "SNP", I guess it might be Shoulder Neck Point ??? You will
use SNP in the future drafting.

The secound line is the green one. From now on you should be fine
with just looking (for a long time)at the drawing.

4. Note: our collar is more round than the drawing so you have
to reshape it by yourself. I fold the green line and shape/draw
the collar on the dressform on wrong side of the pattern paper
and transfer the line to the right side if it is not see thru.

5. Draft the collar stand and cut off the stand area out of the main collar.
You will need to cut collar stand 2 pieces (on fabric) and interfacing them with stiffer interface than fusiknit type.

6. Learn from my mistake, thoes are overlapping area NOT speading. It will force the collar to curve nicely, added hight too.

7. At the SNP (green dash), to the left devided to 3 section, on the right
side 4 sections. You have to copy this piece right now before cut& spread, this is your undercollar. Interface undercollar with stiffer interfacing than fusiknit please.

I forgot to copy that why I had to return them to the original. See?

8. Cut and spread as state in Centimeter. and true line (use french curve) , you are ready to add the seam allowance, don't add only 1/4"
like I did, I think 1/2" would be nice. Cut one piece on fabric, this is
your upper collar. I don't interface this piece, I think you could interface
with very lightweight interfacing, (if you like.)

When sewing don't gathering , do the small pleating by laying upper
collar on top of the undercollar so you can control how much to pleat and where to pleat , at the end the upper collar and under collar will be exactly the same size.

My mistake was that I did the gathering and when it was sewn
to the garment, the gathering was uneven badly. I had to hand sewn
, reshaped and press them, painful process.

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Cuffs:

My pattern is just a rectangle cut in "bias" but I don't like the outcome
so much. I think it would be better if you reduce the width of the hem
a little bit so it will curve in not spreading out like mine.

Create Date : 21 ธันวาคม 2550

Last Update : 21 ธันวาคม 2550 1:38:58 น.

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