Spring 2015Couture

Elie Saab

NicolePhelps

January28, 2015

"Back then, Beirut seemed to be constantly adorned for aparty that would never end." If you ever wondered where Elie Saab got histaste for sequins and crystals, it was spelled out in the chapbook he presentedto guests at his Haute Couture show today. The Lebanese designer dedicated thecollection to his past. A portrait of his parents when they were as young asSaab's own children are now graced the first pages of the catalog; in it hismother wears a tulip-print dress that provided a template for new embroideries.Saab is one of the most consistent couturiers around, known for glitteringred-carpet fare, but using his '60s childhood (he called the period Beirut's "goldenage") injected a certain freshness into his lineup. Above-the-knee partyfrocks trimmed in ostrich plumes were paired with low-heeled satin sandals, afirst chez Saab. Other unexpected silhouettes—a sheer tulle jumpsuit withbeads, a tulle robe coat with deep bands of feathers on the sleeve—signaled anew low-key attitude. In keeping with that relaxed spirit, nearly all thelooks, gowns included, were built with pockets.

Saab rarely uses prints, preferring the simplicity of a solid-color dress, buthis mother's tulips proved a powerful totem this season. The watercolor floralof a strapless number with petal-like embroidery of point d'esprit and a short,flirty option in the same vivid pattern could be tempting alternatives for thewoman who can't or doesn't want to wear the designer's plentiful sheer styles.

Credit://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-couture/elie-saab