Bloggang.com : =Neo= - How to Set up a Marine Reef Aquarium

Steps

Select the area of the house where you want the tank to be.
Buy the largest aquarium that will fit in your space. Buying a smaller aquarium will only mean upgrading later on. Larger aquariums provide a much more stable environment.
Choose between acrylic or glass, knowing that acrylic will scratch easily but is easier to drill and is much lighter. Make sure to get a tank that is pre-drilled with an internal "overflow" wier or sometimes described as "reef-ready". It is better to choose a tank that is not too deep(e.g. 24 to 30") so you can reach the bottom easily; a tank that is wider will provide a better depth of view for a more natural look. A second smaller tank (a sump)is placed under the main aquarium and will hold all the equipment out of sight.
Choose lighting: Metal halide lamps provide the best lighting for most of the corals commonly kept, other forms of lighting are also obtainable and offer varying degrees of success. 250 watts bulbs will suit most common aquariums except for the deeper ones where 400 w bulbs provide more light penetration.The color spectrum of the bulbs (expressed in color temperature in Kelvins) is a matter of personal choice.10,000 Kelvins give many corals a lighting similar to what they get in their original environments. 20,000 Kelvin bulbs provide a bluer light of deeper environments. One bulb for every 2 feet of tank length is usually recommended.
Set up the filtration: Get a good quality protein skimmer and place it in your sump. Do not skimp on this.
Adjust the flow. Now is time to get a saltwater rated pump to return the water from your sump to the main tank. Additional powerhead pumps in the tank or external pump(s) should be installed to provide additional vigorous turbulent flow, which is crucial to the survival of your future corals.
Place a heater(s)in your sump.
Fill the tank with tapwater partially then totally to test for leaks.
Prepare enough artificial seawater for the volume needed. Use only a good aquarium seasalt brand and purified water with a Reverse Osmosis or R0/DeIonization Filter. Another option is to fill the tank with RO/DI water and then add the salt.
Add 'live rock' and arrange to your liking, approximately 20% of your volume. The rock can be placed on an aragonite sand bed but the substrate will tend to accumulate detritus overtime. A sanded depth of 4 to 5" is recommended for maximal detritus biological processing. Live rock can be obtained online or at your local marine aquarium store. The sand bed has to be placed before the seawater is slowly added.
Let the tank "cycle". This means you will need to wait until the water tests negative for ammonia or nitrite. Inserting bits of frozen fish foods in the sand bed can speed the cycle. This may take 1 to 2 weeks. Algae blooms can be a natural part of the cycle. Check and make sure the salinity is stable at 1.025 to 1.026. Compensate for evaporated water losses with RO/DI water. Keep the temperature, Calcium and Alkalinity levels stable. Do not use commercial "supplements" other than water changes.
Add cleaning creatures such as snails, small hermit crabs and finally herbivore reef fishes.
You should now be ready to add live corals to your tank.